Two Names for Every Mountain — Exploring the Dolomites

Somewhere above Bolzano—just beyond the creaking ascent of the cable car to Soprabolzano/Oberbozen—the names begin to double. Every signpost, every trail marker, every café board now comes in Italian and German. Soprabolzano / Oberbozen. Renon / Ritten. Malga / Alm. It’s June, and the meadows spill over with wildflowers—cornflowers, gentians, tiny pink orchids. I’ve packed …