Exploring the Kerala Backwaters by Houseboat

For two days, we’ve drifted past schoolchildren waving from grassy banks and coconut groves, watched fishermen untangle their nets at dawn, and played endless games of travel backgammon on a rickety little table on the deck, as the kettuvallam houseboat glides through Kerala’s sleepy backwaters, greeted by kingfisher calls and the gently bobbing palms that …

Archipelago Days: A Slow Swedish Summer

It was Tove Jansson’s classic, The Summer Book, that first introduced me to Scandinavian summers and archipelagos strewn confetti-like with tiny islands, those in turn dotted with brightly painted wooden cabins. The all-too-brief passing of the northern summer months, the sense of urgency to seize every moment of sunshine and dappled light, before “it is still …

Two Names for Every Mountain — Exploring the Dolomites

Somewhere above Bolzano—just beyond the creaking ascent of the cable car to Soprabolzano/Oberbozen—the names begin to double. Every signpost, every trail marker, every café board now comes in Italian and German. Soprabolzano / Oberbozen. Renon / Ritten. Malga / Alm. It’s June, and the meadows spill over with wildflowers—cornflowers, gentians, tiny pink orchids. I’ve packed …